Salons Are Charging Extra Fees for 'Textured' Hair. Black Women Have Had Enough

As is usually the case with viral tweets like Rae’s, Aveda reps reached out almost immediately to have a conversation and try to reconcile the situation. And Rae says she’s been happy with her interactions with the company so far. “They've gone above and beyond to make sure my local situation was handled, rectified, and refunded,” she says. Aveda also provided Glamour with the following statement: “At Aveda we are committed to inclusively delivering the very best in service, embracing all hair types. We in no way condone or tolerate discriminatory behavior or profiling policies of any kind. We are deeply apologetic for this situation as it is not in line with our values. We value consumer feedback and are working with our independently owned salons to prevent this from happening again.”

Still, Rae’s aware the company’s responses, as good as they’ve been, are just that for the time being: responses. “I'm waiting to make sure they follow through with their promises—that it's not just lip service,” she says.

In the meantime, she hopes a couple of things come out of her situation. First, a greater examination of the policies at all salons—Aveda or otherwise—regardless of who they cater to. “My hope is that salons pay more attention to ensuring customers feel seen, heard, known, and included in the conversation, and that they also feel respected,” she says.

Second, she hopes it'll shed light on the fact that women who are born with naturally curly hair are not an inconvenience. “I want this to change the language around folks of color’s hair, period,” she says. Lastly, she's hopeful it'll push salons that style all hair types to engage in diversity training and educate stylists on cultural awareness and sensitivities. “If they're trying to serve natural clients, then they really need to do the due diligence and train their front desk girls, their stylists, their managers, to really serve the client that they say they're serving in the most excellent way," says Rae. "Regardless of their nationality, anyone who steps in the salon should be treated fairly by all staff.”

At the very least, awareness and education around natural curls does seem to be getting better, some report. Keryce Chelsi Henry, freelance content director, says she’s been up-charged at salons before, but thanks to the natural-hair movement, her experience has drastically improved. “Back then, having curly or kinky hair was widely seen as something to be fixed, so to speak,” says Henry. “I had fewer negative experiences during the years my hair was relaxed and have none now that stylists know more about textured hair.”

Not only that, women with natural hair know more, including how to style their hair on their own. Which has allowed a lot of women of color to ditch the salon altogether and the uncomfortable experiences that sometimes come along with them. Jessica Cruel, deputy beauty director at Refinery29, says she started avoiding the salon around 11 years ago after she went natural. “I’ve had too many bad experiences to count: heat damage, jacked-up haircuts, and horrible balayage attempts,” she says. “Now I do my hair at home—even trims.”

As for what’s next for Rae, well, at the moment, she’s left feeling like she doesn't "really know where to go now.” Despite her own temporary feelings of discouragement, if she has one more thing to add to her list of hopes, it’s that no more black women go through what she went through. This isn’t the first time women have dealt with a “natural hair tax” (there have been many, many, many instances before Rae’s), but she wants it to be the last. “We should feel empowered to speak up and say something,” she says. “I hope this conversation empowers others to say, ‘No, can I ask for a manager? Can I see my stylist? I do not feel comfortable paying an additional amount because of my texture.'”

Taylor Bryant is a beauty writer in London. Follow her on Instagram @taylahgram.

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