At many practices, there’s no difference in cost between YAG and diode treatments. Some research shows that the diode might be slightly more effective at actually removing hair on brown or Black skin—it could also be worthwhile if you’re closer to 3 on the Fitzpatrick scale and have a low pain tolerance. But Gmyrek believes that the Nd:YAG is the safest bet overall for laser hair removal for dark skin.
How to Prepare for Your Laser Hair Treatment
Now is not—we repeat, not—the time to get a coupon through a discount site. The provider (and their expertise) matters. “I was willing to pay a premium and see a professional with great reviews,” says Marlene, 28, who had the treatment done on her underarms. A pro who has extensive experience with laser hair removal for dark skin is essential.
Not only should you expect the screening to cover the topics and forms you’d see from any medical professional, it should also include your ethnicity, because different ethnicities—regardless of skin tone—react differently to lasers. Your skin may appear to be a 3 or 4 on the Fitzpatrick scale, but if you’re, say, Latinx or Asian, it could react to the laser as a 6 would.
Once you’re scheduled, coddle your skin. Stop using skin-care products with harsh ingredients, including glycolic and salicylic acids, benzoyl peroxide, and any retinoids (including tretinoin and adapalene), at least five days before your treatment. “These can all make your skin more sensitive to the laser energy,” says Gmyrek.
Go full vampire and keep out of the sun—or at the very least, use proper protection. (That’s broad-spectrum SPF of 30 or more; tinted moisturizer or foundation with SPF doesn’t count.) A tan equals more pigment, which can spur a different (and potentially dangerous) reaction to the laser. “If you’re even slightly tanned, inform the laser provider so that the treatment energy can be lowered or the treatment rescheduled,” says Gmyrek.
Caring for Dark Skin After Laser Hair Removal
Side effects can still happen—but you’ve got options. “For irritation or redness, hydrocortisone can help to resolve the inflammation,” says Gmyrek. “For an acne-like eruption, or folliculitis, use topical antibiotics.” For any hyperpigmentation, try a topical cream for dark spots, which your derm can prescribe. “It’ll help normalize the skin color,” says Gmyrek.
But many who once felt a need to shave daily say the minimal upkeep has been well worth it. “My overall experience was great,” says Marlene. The best part? She didn’t experience burns or pigmentation problems, proving just how far laser hair removal for dark skin has come.
Deanna Pai is a beauty writer in New York City. Follow her on Instagram @deannapai.
