If you want to reap the benefits of the ingredient without the gamble that you're using it wrong, moisturizer is key. Rogers agrees, pointing out that the process both hydrates your skin and acts as a buffer for a gentler experience.
While it does mean you won't get the full thrust of retinol's abilities, for people with dry or sensitive skin, that can be a good thing. The thinner or more reactive your skin, the more retinol will be absorbed, so adding a plain, basic moisturizer like CeraVe Moisturizing Cream keeps your skin happy. If you want to simplify even more, King says you can moisturize first, then top with your retinol. Still, buffering—mixing the two together—is a great way to be extra sure you're not overdoing it, and Rogers says she recommends it for people who've had a bad retinol experience but want to give it another shot.
Once you're back in the saddle and your skin seems to have adjusted, Rogers suggests reversing your routine—using retinol followed by a moisturizer—to nix irritation without dulling the benefits. After you've been exposed to vitamin A (the basis of retinol) for a few weeks, the number of receptors in your skin decreases, so the amount of retinol you take in also dips.
Rabach's additional tip is to combine buffering with varying potencies of retinol. "Most over-the-counter retinols are weak, with Differin being the weakest, going all the way up to Tazarotene, which is the strongest," she says. "Start with the weakest and build up over time to stronger ones as tolerated." She also cautions against using any other exfoliants while you're adjusting, including both physical and chemical scrubs.
How to treat retinol burn
If you do end up with a prebuffering case of retinol burn, treat it before diving into a new routine. Depending on the severity, consider booking an appointment. "You should go to a dermatologist because there can be hyperpigmentation associated with it," advises Rabach. "Usually, we treat with a steroid, an emulsifier like Aquaphor, and sun protection. Occasionally, a bleaching cream like hydroquinone may be needed."
You should also stop use immediately until your skin has completely healed. "Use gentle cleansers and moisturizers in the meantime and avoid other irritating products like AHAs, BHAs, and benzoyl peroxide," says Chang. Her recommended routine is waiting it out and streamlining your routine to ingredients that won't cause another flare-up. If you have a more severe reaction that's not serious enough to see a derm, try using an OTC hydrocortisone cream to alleviate the redness.
When you're ready to go back to buffering, Chang has one final tip. "I recommend looking for retinol formulations that are combined with soothing or hydrating ingredients to minimize irritation like antioxidants, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid," she says. That's an even easier way to wake up with glowing, flake-free skin.
